Understanding the Animal Welfare Act 2006

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The Veterinary Surgeons Act 1966 regulates who can perform veterinary procedures on animals in the UK. This includes dog grooming, and dog groomers should know the Act’s restrictions.

What the Veterinary Surgeons Act 1966 says

Only a qualified veterinary surgeon registered with the Royal College of Veterinary Surgeons (RCVS) can perform veterinary procedures. Invasive procedures, such as ear plucking, teeth scaling, and anal gland expression, can only be performed by a qualified vet.

What dog groomers can do?

Dog groomers can provide emergency first aid to save a dog’s life or relieve pain.

Dog groomers should also follow the Animal Welfare Act 2006 and the Dangerous Dogs Act 1991. 

Dog groomers should know the Control of Substances Hazardous to Health (COSHH) regulations.

To comply with the Veterinary Surgeons Act 1966

Anal glands are visually checked for a healthy appearance only by your dog groomer. If a para-anal sac problem is suspected, your pet should be seen by a veterinary surgeon for confirmation of the diagnosis and advice regarding any necessary treatment. Non-medical personnel, like dog groomers, are not qualified to perform internal expression of the para-anal sacs per rectum. This is so that only registered veterinary nurses or veterinary surgeons may perform it, as it equates to the practice of veterinary surgery. Or as student veterinary nurses employed by veterinary surgeons and under their supervision.
Skilled laypeople like dog groomers or owners may express the para-anal sacs externally. However, a veterinary surgeon should have shown them how to do it, explained why it’s necessary, and how often to empty the anal glands. A veterinary surgeon should examine the animal if an anal gland issue is suspected to confirm the diagnosis and provide guidance on any necessary.

If a dog groomer were to provide this service without it being delegated by a veterinary surgeon on a case-by-case basis, they would likely be straying into diagnosis, which would be a breach of the Veterinary Surgeons Act 1966, and if suffering resulted, also a potential offence under the Animal Welfare Act 2006″.

Ear Health and Ear Plucking. As part of our hygiene service, excess hair around the opening or auricular part of the ear canal will be cleared.

A layperson can remove small amounts of hair or debris from a non-infected ear, as this would not usually be considered an act of veterinary surgery; however, if there is an ear infection or the possibility of a ruptured ear drum, a veterinary surgeon should deal with cleaning or plucking. As a non-medical layperson, a dog groomer cannot determine whether or not a dog has an ear infection; therefore, it is the responsibility of a veterinarian.

Hair and ear wax or plugs inside the ear canal should be removed under your Veterinarian’s supervision. Ear hair removal from deep inside the ear may cause or exacerbate ear infections; as such, it is your vet’s responsibility. Your vet should inspect the ear canal after removing hair and wax plugs to assess if irritation or damage may impact ear health.

It is the pet owners responsibility, not that of your dog groomer, to seek out the expertise of your veterinarian to examine the internal vertical and horizontal ear canals, anal areas, and anal glands to ensure proper function and health.

Can certain breeds of dogs be “hypoallergenic” or less prone to provoking allergies in owners, and does a dog’s coat type, fur, or hair make any difference?

Fur and hair are technically the same, constructed of keratin, and each grows out of hair follicles. The difference is how each strand of hair grows and its purpose.

You’ve probably heard that certain dog breeds may be “hypoallergenic,” for example, the Labradoodle and Cockapoo. Whether the pet has fur or hair and how that affects allergies may differ from what many would expect.

Dogs with a fur coat tend to have two layers, a top coat and a soft undercoat that helps them regulate a comfortable body temperature. Fur coats also tend to shed more and disperse in the air with shorter growth cycles. These breeds include the Cavalier King Charles, Golden Retriever, Labrador, Husky and Pomeranian, to name a few.

Dogs with hair include Miniature Poodle, Bichon Frise, Maltese, Yorkshire terrier, Miniature Schnauzer, Shih Tzu, and Havenese.

Contrary to popular belief, dogs with hair or fur aren’t inherently hypoallergenic. That’s because what induces allergies is typically the dander (skin particles) and dried saliva present on a dog’s coat, not the hair itself. Every dog carries dander, so whether a dog has fur or hair isn’t going to solve allergy problems altogether.

Hair, however, does retain dander better than fur. Dogs with hair tend to shed less and trap shedding hair in their coat, preventing dander from becoming airborne. Dogs with fur tend to release dander allergens more readily. Their coats are shorter and shed on furniture and other surfaces.

The first misconception that certain dogs can be hypoallergenic results from containment rather than elimination. The dander and dead hair will not easily fall or shed from the coat of breeds such as Poodles, Labradoodles, Goldendoodle, Cavapoos, Poochons and Yorkiepoos, resulting in less contact with airborne allergens.

Cross-breeding with poodles became very popular to limit the chances of being allergic to a pet dog, which it does, but it may create other problems. Poodles have hair which retains dander better than some other coat types. They also contain the shedding hair as it falls from the hair follicle to make way for a new coat. The dead hair and dander are trapped with the growing hair rather than shedding onto furniture and household surfaces which may lead to the effects of allergy in some people.

The second misconception is that these breeds do not need to be brushed or groomed as often because they do not shed their coat. Indeed, they shed their coat and skin just the same as any other breed of dog with hair or fur. Any dog with hair that is considered hypoallergenic will need a great deal of attention (brushing) to prevent the coat from matting with trapped dead hair and dander. The trapped hair must be removed manually by brushing and combing the coat. Owners with allergies to a dog’s fur or hair or those considered hypoallergenic should wear a face mask to prevent breathing in the dander while attending to the daily brushing requirements of their dog.

 Shedding

If you are a Pug, Boxer dog, Beagle or Labrador owner you will know that your dog seems to shed their coat prolifically all year round. If you own a Miniature Schnauzer, Poodle, Boston Terrier or Smooth Haired Dachshund you will know that they barely seem to shed at all. All dogs go through a distinct cycle of growth and loss throughout the year depending on breed and coat type. Some dogs will shed at a steady rate and others shed their coat with the changing seasons. Simply put the old coat is replaced with a new coat. How easy or difficult the coat is to maintain depends on the type of coat your dog has.

Coat Types

In addition to the various coat types we have outlined here, your dog’s coat may also be Double Coated. These coats have two distinctive layers to fulfil different roles. This is a coat type adapted to all weathers and includes the Golden Retriever, Bearded Collie, German Shepherd dog, Australian Sheppard Dog,  Border Collie, Golden Retriever, Pomeranian, Yorkshire Terrier and Pembroke Welsh Corgi. 

Additionally, all dog coat falls into two major categories – undetermined length (UDL) and predetermined length (PDL).  Some people use the terms HAIR (UDL) and FUR (PDL) to distinguish between these two types. The length of Hair, like ours, will just grow and grow until it is cut. Fur will grow to a certain length and stop.

Each of these different coat types required very different grooming approaches, tools, and care.

In winter when it’s cold, wet and dirty, the longer guard hairs protect the undercoat from getting wet and from dirt penetrating the coat to the skin. When the undercoat is dry your dogs stay insulated from the cold. This same protective functionality is also designed to keep your dog comfortable in hot weather too. This coat also protects the skin from summer biting insects and from the suns damaging UVA & UVB rays. Remove the coat and we remove the skins natural protection. A dogs skin is much thinner than our own, the fur is there for that reason. Dogs with double coats will naturally shed the warm dense undercoat as the weather warms up leading to a finer coat perfectly suited to keep the skin cool, shaded and protected from the summer sun. The key to keeping your dogs coat ‘fit for function’ is to brush and comb at least three times a week, if not daily, with a brush that is suited to this coat type, preferably an ActiVet Brush and keep the coat clean. The undercoat must be kept free from matting and tangling to keep the whole coat healthy and well-conditioned. Clipping down certain breeds with this coat type whether long or short could also damage the coat, resulting in patchy, fluffy regrowth which looks unsightly and will take a long time to regrow and get back into a natural growth cycle. This also applies to all-natural coated dogs where the coat grows to a pre-defined length. Long Haired Chihuahua’s and Pomeranian’s, for example, may have permanently damaged coats if clipped down unnecessarily.

So whatever the weather this summer, FCL would not be looking at shaving off your Border Collie, Golden Retriever, Shetland Sheepdog or Samoyed. Instead, always provide your double-coated dog with shade on sunny days and provide fresh clean water at all times. Keeping the coat free from shedding undercoat with effective regular brushing and combing is the key to keeping the coat in perfect condition, which in return takes care of your dog. Brushing is a need of the breed. A Pyrenean Mountain Dog, Newfoundland or Bearded Collie will require effective daily brushing. Missing just days, a week or two weeks of effective brushing can result in serious matting where the tight coat caused discomfort and can lead to additional skin problems if left unattended for several weeks. Dry air in summer or winter will also mean the undercoat mats more easily. Dogs kept indoors with central heating are just as susceptible as those kept outdoors, keep brushing whatever the weather, season or environment.  If you have neglected to brush the coat according to the need of your breed and it has become matted or felted (pelted) then clipping the coat very short may be the last resort for the welfare of your pet to reduce further discomfort. If your dog is brought to FCL for regular professional grooming we will work with you to ensure your dog’s coat is kept in optimum condition.

Make a well-informed, educated choice before choosing any breed of dog. Embrace the beautiful coat your dog has and accept your responsibility for the animal in your care. There are between 300 and 400 breeds of domestic dogs to choose from and approximately ten different types of dog coat, thanks to years of human genetic engineering of the dog and its functions. so choose wisely.

Professional grooming means a dog is groomed to a high standard and ideally should not have signs of clipper marks after clipping short, as is the case with cocker spaniels, for example. When the coat is clipped velvety short (7F), the groomer needs to take their time, work slowly with the clippers held level with the skin, and use light pressure. The groomer needs to use slow strokes on the back and sides, always going with the lay of the coat grain, which should be backcombed or brushed up without changing direction. The pressure with the clipper should be even at all times, as too much fluctuation can leave lines that can be hard or impossible to remove. The element of consistent control results in a smooth, even finish without visible clipper lines.

So why do clipper lines sometimes appear after clipping short? Well, doing just the opposite will cause clipper marks. Using inconsistent pressure, not flowing in the direction of coat growth, changing direction with the clipper, and not keeping the blade flat against the skin will all contribute to clipper lines.

There are coat types that are more difficult to clip smooth. For example, a cocker spaniel with a silky coat, particularly the fawn through to red colours, is the most challenging to achieve a perfect finish. With this coat type, the groomer must pay close attention to the consistent method of clipping using a short clipper blade.

The clipper blade should remain flat while gliding over the skin. Where a dog is very slim and bony or has rolls of fat, the skin should be stretched out if possible because skipping over these areas will also add to the difficulty of achieving a smooth finish.

Suppose the dog being groomed is unacclimatised to the grooming environment and is active and energetic, moving around the table. In that case, the result will likely be heavily lined due to the inconsistent position and pressure of the blade due to the dog’s movement.

The groomer must have complete control over a dog that is standing steadily to achieve the ideal results, from clipping a silky coat, in particular, to a high standard.

When the groomer is working with a dog not standing reasonably still on the grooming table and using a short body blade such as the 7F, it is unlikely that the coat will be finished to a high standard. The owner should consider an alternative style or longer coat length if they report or express dissatisfaction due to clipper lines in their dog’s coat after being groomed.

Wool or curly-coated dogs are less likely to show clipper lines due to the nature and structure of the coat; however, the same consistent methods should be applied for a smooth finish.

As you may have read in Shedding & Coat Types, a dogs coat comes in various lengths and textures which determine how the coat should be groomed and the level of time involved in maintenance.

Have you ever wondered why your dogs coat seems to grow faster and then seems to hardly grow at all between grooming appointments? Understanding the shedding life cycle of your pets hair can help you appreciate that, at times, your pets coat may need more attention to grooming!

Breeds and individuals within every breed will shed and regrow hair at varying rates. If a dog sheds more often it is more noticeable than if they shed extensively but for a period of only several weeks. Indoor dogs, because of artificial heat and more importantly light, tend to shed in a more or less continuous fashion. Dogs kept outside tend to shed for several weeks during major seasonal changes, most notably in spring and Autumn. Usually they grow more guard hairs or undercoat in the winter for warmth. In the spring they lose the undercoat and replace much of it with the longer guard hairs. The coat changes in appearance, density and texture but the numbers of hair follicles does not.

The growth process of a dogs coat is different to our own. Some dogs have more than one hair type growing at the same time in varying textures and layers from a single hair follicle. Regardless of the type of coat your dog has the hair goes through four stages of growth and renewal. Sometimes in very clearly defined shedding stages, seasonally with most double coated breeds and in other breeds continuous shedding.

Anagen Phase – This is when the new hairs are in an active state of growth

Catagen Phase – This is when the new hairs reach their maximum length and stop actively growing

Telogen Phase – This is when the hair becomes dormant, fully attached to the skin but not growing and is ready to be pushed out by new growth

Exogen Phase – When the hair reachs the end of its natural lifecycle and is shed from the follicle

Then the cycle starts all over again!

Changes in coat growth occur in areas where the coat changes the direction of growth, for example on the sides of the neck behind the ears, fore-chest area, under the tail and on the rear side of the forearms from the outer elbow down towards the pastern where the change of coat growth appears as a long parting in the coat. These crowns form swirls or rosettes in the coat when these areas are covered in hair and are often referred to as cowlicks. When the coat is trimmed short, particularly 7F (3.2mm). The pattern where the change of coat growth occurs will be different in the individual dog. These areas are more likely to be revealed at lengths of 10mm or less and may appear to be shaved or a mistake but are naturally forming.

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• Completely new metal guard comb section.
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• Includes detailed sections on classic Poodle and drop coat styles.
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